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4 (More) Thoughts on a Day of Wine Tasting in Napa Valley PDF Print E-mail
Wine Tourism
Written by Fred Swan   
Thursday, 20 May 2010 12:37

So, picking up where we left off yesterday...

#1: I had just enough time before our next appointment to stop in at August Briggs for a quick run through their tasting lineup for the day. I’d not been there before and was both surprised and pleased to see that they had a library wine on the tasting sheet. I was told that they frequently do. I think that’s an excellent idea. So many wineries tell you that their wines will age well, but it’s up to you to buy the wine and hold it to see if they were right. And a lot of casual wine enthusiasts hear about the benefits of aging some wines, but have never had the opportunity to taste such a wine.

All the wines at August Briggs were good but, as it happens, my favorite was actually that library wine. It was a 2002 August Briggs Syrah Page-Nord Vineyard Napa Valley. It was opaque ruby in color with pigmented legs and a big nose of black berries, dark plum, smoke and leather. The flavors were similar but added black pepper and a bit of wild game. The wine was still pretty fresh and was well balanced. It should do well for at least another three or four years. Highly recommended.

#2: Our last appointment of the day was at Chateau Montelena. I’ve been there on several occasions, but my friends had not. As members of the trade, they’d called ahead for an appointment. As a result, we had not just the standard array of wines for walk-in tasters but a couple of older wines as well.
Chateau Montelena was put on the map by the Paris Tasting of 1976 in which their 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay Napa Valley took first place. (I’m told there are 10 bottles of that wine left down in their cellar. Naturally, they are not for sale.) You can buy the 2007 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay Napa Valley though. It’s a very good wine with prominent acidity and flavors of white peach, tart apple, vanilla and spice. The wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation, hence the acidity. Highly recommended, $50.

We tasted a number other wines there but the highlight for me was the 1984 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay Napa Valley. It was without a doubt the best aged California Chardonnay I’ve ever had. The color is now amber, but the wine remains clear, bright and very aromatic. The nose included almond, hazelnut, yellow raisins, dried apricot, red delicious apple and a touch of stewed rhubarb. The nose kind of messed with me actually, because I’ve been tasting a lot of sweet wines. With those aromas, my Pavlovian palate was expecting sweetness in the wine even though I knew it would be bone dry. The flavors did mirrored nose and, as with many wines that age well, there was plenty of acidity. I’ve seen one other online review of this wine (from six years ago) and it was not positive. They must have tried a poorly stored bottle. The wine I tasted was tremendous.

#3: There aren’t too many wineries in Napa Valley that stay open until 6PM. Alpha Omega does and it’s a good place to end a day of tasting. Their Rutherford tasting room is large and sunny with big picture windows looking out over their pond, with its three big water jets, and then on to the Mayacamas mountains. There are a couple of patio areas with big chairs you can relax in. And the wines are good.

Alpha Omega has the look and feel of a modern, designer resort. To an extent, their wines are designer as well. The head winemaker is Jean Hoefliger and they engage the famous “flying-winemaker” Michel Rolland as a consultant too. The winery has estate vines but also sources fruit from many of Napa Valley’s most prominent vineyards including Beckstoffer To Kalon, Stagecoach and Hudson.

The wines of Alpha Omega are modern in style with bold flavors and rich, even plush, texture. That said, they are well-balanced and don’t take ripeness, extraction or palate-weight to excess. Alpha Omega considers itself a boutique winery and the wines are priced accordingly. Their flagship wine, Era, is a Bordeaux-varietal blend that sells for $185 with a three-bottle minimum. Visitors to the winery have the opportunity to taste upcoming vintages of Era from the barrel. It’s easy to understand from that taste why the wine always sells out quickly. It’s outstanding. 
Fortunately, Alpha Omega makes several other wines and in enough volume that you can still get them. I highly recommend the 2006 Alpha Omega Proprietary Red Napa Valley. It runs $82 and is a nearly opaque ruby color with deeply pigmented legs, complex aromas and flavors of red and black fruit, floral and herbal notes, chocolate and vanilla.

If you’d like to try some non-Cabernet red, I very highly recommend the 2008 Alpha Omega Petite Sirah Stagecoach Vineyard. It’s a totally opaque purple-red color with dark legs and a medium plus nose of dark berries, vanilla, smoke, mineral, black pepper and licorice. It’s a full-bodied wine with a lot of tannins but, unlike some other boutique Petite Sirah I’ve tasted recently, it is not a tannic monster. You could drink the wine now. The flavors echo the nose but also include milk chocolate. It's the best Petite Sirah I've had in a while.

#4: After a long day of tasting, we headed back up through St. Helena to the Silverado Brewing Company for dinner. They share a parking lot with Freemark Abbey Winery and, in addition to the indoor bar and restaurant seating, have big wood picnic tables out front where we could enjoy the very pleasant evening. And, in my case, a pile of tender Niman Ranch pork ribs with zesty sauce and refreshing cole slaw. I had to drive home, so I didn’t order a beer, but I did sneak a quick taste of one of their specials and it was good. Silverado Brewing Company has a varied menu that is well-priced and the place is conveniently located relative to Calistoga and St. Helena wineries. I’ll go back.

If you enjoyed this article, please share it! Icons for popular sharing services are at the right above and also below.

Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for breaking wine news, information on events and more. Become a fan and join the NorCal Wine community on FacebookAlso check outour comprehensive Northern California winery listings. They are very useful for planning a tasting trip or just getting in touch with a winery.

This article is original to NorCalWine.com. Copyright 2010 NorCal Wine. Spottswoode photo provided by the winery. All rights reserved.

 

 

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5 Thoughts on a Day of Wine Tasting in Napa Valley PDF Print E-mail
Wine Tourism
Written by Fred Swan   
Wednesday, 19 May 2010 13:58

I spent a full day wine tasting in Napa Valley yesterday. I didn’t have any particular events there I needed to attend or people I had to meet. I went with a couple of industry friends who had specific wineries they wanted to visit, so I didn’t even have to worry about deciding where to go or setting up appointments. It was a tasty and relaxing day. The following are some of my thoughts based on the morning’s visits. Tomorrow, I’ll post comments on the afternoon tastings.

#1: An appointment for a tour and tasting at Spottswoode is a great way to start the day at this time of year. The visits start with a short tour of the tank and barrel rooms. After that though, you walk down the street to see their (certified organic) vineyard. The vines look great right now and the vineyard stretches west toward the hills. It’s a pretty view, especially in the morning light.

After looking at the vineyard, the tour proceeds down the street to the residence. Built in the late 19th century, the house has been beautifully maintained. It backs on to the vineyard but the front and sides of the yard are thick with a wide variety of trees, flowers and a vegetable garden. If you want to take a peek before going, take a look at the Spottswoode virtual tour.

Back at the winery, you taste three wines. First is the Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc. It is crisp, clean and refreshing with flavors of gooseberry and lime that are forward but not aggressive. Highly recommended, $36.

#2: The 2006 Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is a very good wine, but its tannins clamp down on the fruit strongly right now. The wine needs a couple of years in your cellar. If you’re looking for really good Cabernet Sauvignon to drink with dinner in the near term, the 2007 Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon is a better choice. That wine is made in a ready-to-drink style, though it could certainly hold for a few years. The tannins are just to the chalky side of powdery and will no doubt be very silky when accompanied by food. Fresh red fruit is framed by wood-derived flavors of oak, vanilla, caramel and brown spice. The are also subtle notes of rose petal and dark flowers. The fruit is more dominant on the palate, but there are also cocoa and oak accents. Highly recommended, $60.

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#3: Barrel tasting is fun and also a good way to get an understanding of the various grape varieties, vineyards, blocks and barrel techniques that make up an estate wine. Every now and then it can be frustrating though. You sometimes come across a barrel that you want to take home right away. My friends and I had exactly that experience yesterday at Pride Mountain Vineyards with some 2009 Cabernet Franc. It was in it’s sixth or seventh month in used French oak with medium toast. (The barrel was first used in 2005.) The wine was absolutely delicious. It had a great silky texture, beautiful ripe fruit with a lot of tasty coffee notes and just enough leafy characteristics to highlight the variety. Despite our pleading and creative offers, our guide insisted that all of the barrel would be needed to create Pride’s blends.

We tasted from several different barrels. Invariably, the slightly more delicate wines were in neutral oak and made me want to fill a canteen with the juice while the wines of firmer structure were in new oak and I was happy to let them mellow out for a while. [Pride generally keeps their wine in oak for eighteen months and then in bottle for another six. All of the oak is French, but the amount of new oak varies based on the personality of the component wine. The final Cabernet blends wind up with no more than an aggregate of 35% new oak. Cabernet Franc and Merlot blends see even less.]

#4: Fortunately, Pride Mountain Vineyards does have bottles of wine to sell. That makes up for the disappointment of not being able to kidnap a barrel. That said, the 2007 Pride Syrah which was one of my favorite California Syrahs from the 2010 Hospice du Rhone event is sold out. (I guess I’m not the only person that liked it.) The 2008 Pride Syrah has just been released though and was showing well yesterday. It had a nose of fresh dark berries in cream with smoke and light accents of black pepper and leather. The flavors matched the nose, but with greater emphasis on the black pepper. There was very good balance between the tannins, alcohol and fruit, all of which persist for a lengthy finish. Highly recommended, ready now but best after a year in the cellar, $60.

The 2009 Pride Viognier Sonoma County is also very good. [Pride is situated such that part of it's vineyards are in Napa County and the rest in Sonoma County.] It’s intensely aromatic with apricot, baking spice, white flowers, ripe pear and white peach on the nose. The flavor is equally intense creamy stone fruit, spice and floral essence. This is a very full-bodied wine with enough acidity to carry that off. It would go very well with a fresh crab salad or meaty crab cakes. Highly recommended, $42.

#5: When you’re trying to maximize time at wineries, an extended lunch is not an option. My friends planned ahead and made a stop at the V. Sattui Winery deli in the morning to pick up duck rillettes, brie and an Acme Bakery baguette. Eating that while taking in the view from Pride’s mountain top vineyards made them happy.

I had been running late in the morning, so I had to wing it for lunch. That was not a problem though. I swooped into a open parking spot in front of St. Helena’s Model Bakery. Debating briefly between a pre-packaged turkey club sandwich on sliced sourdough and a  big slice of their thick crust pizza, I opted for the latter. I was able to enjoy a shot of their Peets espresso while they warmed the pizza up for me. Fast, inexpensive, very tasty and the right amount of food to prepare me for more tasting, it was just what I needed.

If you enjoyed this article, please share it! Icons for popular sharing services are at the right above and also below.

Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for breaking wine news, information on events and more. Become a fan and join the NorCal Wine community on FacebookAlso check outour comprehensive Northern California winery listings. They are very useful for planning a tasting trip or just getting in touch with a winery.

This article is original to NorCalWine.com. Copyright 2010 NorCal Wine. Spottswoode photo provided by the winery. All rights reserved.

 

 

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Take a Tour at Schramsberg Vineyards in Napa Valley PDF Print E-mail
Wine Tourism
Written by Fred Swan   
Friday, 19 March 2010 22:42

There are a lot of different types of winery tours you can take in wine country. You can do "normal," yet informative, hose and tank tours. You can go on vineyard walks. There are tours focused on "green" practices and/or biodynamics. Some tours feature ornate historical buildings or extensive underground labyrinths. You can sip your way through barrel rooms with a wine thief or get a detailed tour of a winery which could be mistaken for a Bond villain's lair.

Excellent tours all, but they may also take two or three hours to complete. You don't always have that much time. Sometimes, interesting yet brief is better. Schramsberg Vineyards offers exactly that. And the tour ends with world-class wine.

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Wine Routes: The Wineries of Hwy. 84 In Livermore PDF Print E-mail
Wine Tourism
Written by Fred Swan   
Tuesday, 16 February 2010 12:11

Just 30 miles from San Francisco, is an easy, uncrowded and rewarding place to go wine tasting. The lack of fame, boutique-wineryfication or crazy land prices keep the wines affordable. And the wine is good.

Livermore is one of the oldest wine-growing areas in California. Spanish missionaries planted its first wine grapes in the 1770’s. It’s also home to the United States’ oldest continually-operated, family-owned winery, Wente Vineyards, which was established in 1883. Just six years later, Charles Wetmore’s Cresta Blanca Winery became California’s first international gold medal winner, taking home a prize from Paris. And Livermore wineries were also the very first to produce varietally-designated wines made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Petite Sirah. So why don’t we hear more about Livermore wine?

Livermore's gravelly soil is conducive to high-quality wine grape production and led Hugh Johnson to say that the area comes as close to the white wines of Graves as one can in California. Livermore Valley also features grapes of impeccable pedigree. Charles Wetmore planted Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon cuttings taken directly from Chateau d’Yquem in the 1880’s. Wente clones of Chardonnay, developed in Livermore from cuttings brought from France by C. H. Wente, are used for 80% of all Chardonnay grown in California. So it is neither terroir nor grapes that keep Livermore from the limelight.

The culprits were Prohibition and land development. When Prohibition was instituted in 1919, there were more than 50 commercial wineries in Livermore. During the dry period, that number declined precipitously. Much of the land was planted over to other crops or used for grazing cows and sheep. Then, starting in the late-1960’s suburban sprawl began to cover good vineyard land with houses and small businesses.

After California’s success in the famous Paris tasting of 1976, nearby Napa Valley increased acreage under vine dramatically. That couldn’t happen in Livermore because so much land was covered by buildings or zoned as non-agricultural. And while the number of its wineries has grown rapidly of late, Livermore still has fewer wineries than it did in 1919.

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Fall Back on Spring Mountain PDF Print E-mail
Wine Tourism
Written by Fred Swan   
Tuesday, 23 December 2008 13:59

It was the kind of pre-Thanksgiving day that makes us feel very fortunate to live in this area. Somewhere in Wisconsin, moon boots were stepping gingerly out onto snow-covered lakes to see if the ice was thick enough for fishing. On the east coast, cars did graceful pirouettes through frozen intersections. Meanwhile, we sat in short sleeve shirts atop Spring Mountain drinking wine. We had just one weather-related concern. If we leave our wine in the car, will it cook?

It is sometimes said that we don’t get “real seasons” out here. It’s certainly true that we don’t get a lot of snow in the coastal wine country. We have to head to the Sierra Foothills if we want to go wine tasting and skiing on the same day. That isn’t a very long drive though. And if it’s Fall colors that people fear we miss, those colors are vivid on the grape vines. The grape leaves change from green to shades of gold and red just like a Pennsylvanian tree.

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